Training on a climbing hangboard is an excellent way for beginner climbers to improve grip strength, endurance, and technique. In this article, we present the ten best exercises to start with on a climbing hangboard, with detailed explanations on objectives, descriptions, progressions, required equipment, and the best time to perform them.
⚠️ Warning: Training on a climbing hangboard can be intense and demanding for muscles and tendons. It is crucial to practice these exercises in good physical conditions and not to train when tired. Before starting, make sure to warm up properly to avoid injuries. Do not push your body beyond its limits and respect rest times. If you feel unusual pain, stop immediately and consult a healthcare professional.
Contents
-
Finger exercises
- Hangs with Feet on the Ground
- Hangs with Elastic Band
- Simple Hangs
-
Arm and back exercises
- Pull-ups (Assisted)
- Assisted Two-Arm Lock-Off
- Assisted Explosive Pull-Ups
-
Core Strength
- Knee Raises
- Windshield Wiper Exercise
-
Combined Exercises
- Hangs with Shoulder Rotation
- Hangs with Hold Changes
1. Finger exercises
Hangs with Feet on the Ground
| Goal | Warm up the fingers while reducing the load on the arms. |
|---|---|
| Description |
Hang from the hangboard while keeping your feet on the ground to lighten your weight. For effective climbing warm-up, try to maintain an effort level of 2/10 (with 10 being the maximum).
|
| Progression | If you want to work on your endurance (after a good warm-up), you can modify this exercise by aiming for an effort level of 5 to 6/10 and increasing the number of repetitions to 8 to 12 times. |
| Required Equipment | A climbing hangboard Deltaboard with 20&30mm Edges or Deltaboard half-spheres. |
| Optimum Moment | At the beginning of the session for effective finger warm-up (minimum 20 minutes). |
| Intensity | ★☆☆☆☆ |
| Weekly Frequency | As many times as necessary. |
Hangs with Elastic Band
| Goal | Start hangs with feet off the ground to develop finger strength and endurance while reducing load. |
|---|---|
| Description |
Place an elastic band under one of your feet and attach it to the climbing hangboard to lighten your weight. Hang for 8 seconds, rest for 1 minute, and repeat 4 to 8 times. |
| Progression | Gradually reduce the use of the elastic band |
| Required Equipment | Elastic bands of various levels, a Deltaboard climbing hangboard with E20&30mm Edges and the Deltaboard hook. |
| Optimum Moment | At the beginning of the session after a good warm-up of at least 20 minutes. |
| Intensity | ★★★☆☆ |
| Weekly Frequency | 2 to 3 times a week. |
Simple Hangs
| Goal | Strengthen grip strength and forearms. |
|---|---|
| Description |
Choose wide and comfortable holds. Hang with both hands for 6 to 8 seconds, slowly lifting your feet off the ground, then rest for 2 minutes. Repeat this exercise 3 to 5 times. |
| Progression | Add ballast or reduce the size of holds. |
| Required Equipment | A Deltaboard climbing hangboard with 20&30mm Edges |
| Optimum Moment | At the beginning of the session but after a good warm-up. |
| Intensity | ★★★★★ |
| Weekly Frequency | 1 to 2 times per week. |
2. Arm and back exercises
Pull-ups (Assisted)
| Goal | Strengthen the upper body and arms. |
|---|---|
| Description |
Use a chair or an elastic band to lighten your weight. Perform pull-ups at a controlled pace. Do 3 sets of 5 repetitions with 2 minutes of rest between each set. |
| Progression | Gradually reduce the assistance until you can perform complete pull-ups. |
| Required Equipment | A Deltaboard climbing hangboard, Jugs&Slopers Deltaboard holds, a chair or an elastic band. |
| Optimum Moment | At the beginning of the session after a good 20-minute warm-up. |
| Intensity | ★★★★☆ |
| Weekly Frequency | 2 times per week. |
Assisted Two-Arm Lock-Offs
| Goal | Develop your lock-off strength. |
|---|---|
| Description |
Use an elastic band or an assist hold to hang with both hands. Pull up and stop when your elbows form a 90° angle. Hold the position for 5 to 10 seconds with minimal assistance, then slowly lower yourself. Repeat this exercise 3 to 4 times without rest, then take a 2 to 3-minute break. Repeat the cycle 2 to 3 times. |
| Progression | Try to hold the position with your elbows at a 125° angle. |
| Required Equipment | A Deltaboard climbing hangboard, Jugs&Slopers Deltaboard holds, a chair or an elastic band. |
| Optimum Moment | Mid-session to maintain training intensity. |
| Intensity | ★★★★☆ |
| Weekly Frequency | 2 times per week. |
Assisted Explosive Pull-Ups
| Goal | Develop power and pulling strength. |
|---|---|
| Description |
Hang from the climbing hangboard with a comfortable hold and an elastic band between your feet and the hangboard. Perform a quick and explosive pull-up, bringing your chin above the hangboard. Lower yourself slowly, controlling the descent. Do 3 to 4 sets of 3 repetitions with 2 to 3 minutes of rest between each set. |
| Progression | Try to perform explosive pull-ups with minimal assistance or by increasing the speed of the ascent for more challenge. |
| Required Equipment | A Deltaboard climbing hangboard, Jugs&Slopers Deltaboard holds, a chair or an elastic band. |
| Optimum Moment | At the beginning of the session after a good warm-up. |
| Intensity | ★★★★★ |
| Weekly Frequency | 1 to 2 times per week. |
3. Core Strength
Knee Raises
| Goal | Strengthen your core and abdominal muscles. |
|---|---|
| Description | Hang from the board and bring your knees towards your chest while keeping your back straight. Repeat the exercise 5 to 6 times per set. Do 1 to 2 sets. |
| Progression | Increase the number of repetitions or the duration of holding your knees in the air. |
| Required Equipment | A Deltaboard climbing hangboard, Jugs&Slopers Deltaboard holds |
| Optimum Moment | Mid-session for trunk training. |
| Intensity | ★★★☆☆ |
| Weekly Frequency | 2 to 3 times a week. |
Windshield Wiper Exercise
| Goal | Work on trunk flexion and rotation. |
|---|---|
| Description | Hang from the hangboard, legs straight, and perform side-to-side swinging movements like a windshield wiper. Repeat 5 to 6 times per set. Do 1 to 2 sets. |
| Progression | Increase the range of motion or the speed of execution. |
| Required Equipment | A Deltaboard climbing hangboard, Jugs&Slopers Deltaboard holds |
| Optimum Moment | At the end of the session to work the trunk after having tired the arms and fingers. |
| Intensity | ★★★★☆ |
| Weekly Frequency | 1 to 2 times per week. |
4. Combined Exercises
Hangs with Shoulder Rotation
| Goal | Strengthen shoulders and improve stability. |
|---|---|
| Description |
Hang with both hands and make small shoulder rotations while keeping your arms straight. Do 10 rotations in each direction, then rest for 1 minute. Repeat 3 times. |
| Progression | Increase the number of rotations or try working with 1 arm |
| Required Equipment | A hangboard Deltaboard climbing frame and holds Deltaboard Bacs&Plats |
| Optimum Moment | In the middle of the session |
| Intensity | ★★★☆☆ |
| Weekly Frequency | 2 times per week. |
Hangs with Hold Changes
| Goal | Improve endurance and dexterity. |
|---|---|
| Description |
Hang with both hands, deloading with a resistance band or chair, and change holds every 5 seconds, moving from a wide hold to a smaller hold. Continue for 1 minute, then rest for 1 minute. Repeat 3 times. |
| Progression | Reduce the time between hold changes or increase the difficulty of holds. |
| Required Equipment | The XXL Deltaboard pack to enjoy a wide variety of climbing holds, a resistance band, or a chair. |
| Optimum Moment | In the middle of a session to maximize effort |
| Intensity | ★★★★☆ |
| Weekly Frequency | 2 times per week. |
Conclusion
Training on hangboard is an effective method for beginners wishing to improve their strength, endurance and technique. By incorporating these ten exercises into your routine, you'll be able to develop specific climbing skills while progressing at your own pace. Remember to always warm up properly and progress gradually to avoid injury. With perseverance and proper planning, you can reach new heights in your climbing.
